Tuesday, September 14, 2010

Something Old, Something New


Something old ... a Russian samovar

Something new...

I'm home from Russia, and a news story from there depressed me greatly. New York Times reporter Clifford Levy reported Russia Uses Microsoft to Suppress Dissent.

In one sense the story wasn't new to me. Levy's piece wasn't the first detailing the cynical way that Russian authorities have used anti-piracy laws as a pretext for confiscating computers of troublesome non-governmental organizations. Although software piracy is rampant in Russia, and Microsoft estimates that it loses $1 billion a year because of piracy, authorities have not gone after the manufacturers or distributors of pirated goods. Dozens of raids have instead been made on advocacy groups and opposition newspapers, totally disrupting their operations.

Clifford Levy didn't report on the reaction of ordinary Russians to the police raid of the environmental group Baikal Wave. Here's what I think Ivan Ivanovich (that's "Joe Blow," in Russian) might say.

"Let's be realistic here," says Ivan Ivanovich. "The law is nothing more than a tool for authorities to use as they wish. If you irritate the people in power, or you have something they want, well, expect them to use the law against you. They certainly won't use the law against their friends!"

To Ivan Ivanovich there's nothing surprising about the authorities using anti-piracy law to go after Baikal Wave. The organization opposed the re-opening of a paper mill on the shore of beautiful Lake Baikal, the world's oldest and deepest lake, home to hundreds of species found nowhere else. But Vladimir Putin had taken a stance in favor of reopening the dirty factory. (Putin had publicly made his endorsement after taking a submarine ride in the lake. The pure waters could handle pollution from the plant, he concluded.)

What made this story different from dozens of others about anti-piracy raids on advocacy groups is that the New York Times reporter focused on the role of an American entity. "Microsoft, like many American technology giants doing business in authoritarian countries is often faced with ethical choices over government directives to help suppress dissent."

Microsoft had tried to steer a middle way. It would cooperate with the Russian government on anti-piracy crack-downs, but it would try to help non-governmental organizations by making licensed software free or very low cost. All an NGO had to do was ask for the free licensed software.

Indeed, Baikal Wave had licensed software. But where standards of probable cause are weak, and judges are complicit, the little guy has little protection. Baikal Wave had its computers confiscated "for investigation."

Clifford Levy's story upset me so much I tried to think about something I could do. I thought about contacting a friend in the U.S. Department of State... would the U.S. government have any influence? Erratic enforcement of anti-piracy laws are one of the things holding up Russia's accession to WTO, the World Trade Organization. But I happen to believe that Russian leaders aren't all that enthusiastic about WTO because of the disruptions it would bring to protectionist policies... Diplomatic pressure would probably not work.

Is there a higher power than the U.S. government? Yes. The power of the U.S. press.

There was some squirming on office chairs in Redmond, Washington, after the story in the New York Times on Monday. Microsoft had known for months of accusations that "Russia uses Microsoft to suppress dissent." But in just one day, on Tuesday, Microsoft came up with what appears to me to be a brilliant remedy. Microsoft general counsel Brad Smith announced Microsoft Changes Policy Over Russian Crackdown. The company will immediately provide a blanket software license good until 2012 to cover even pirated software installed by advocacy groups and media outlets. NGOs will be automatically covered by it, without having to apply. Furthermore, Microsoft will institute the same policy in any other country where advocacy groups are threatened with shutdown by the same tactic as has been used in Russia.

See, some stories have happy endings!

Friday, September 3, 2010

Highest Mountain in Europe


Who knew? Not I!

The highest mountain in Europe is not Mont Blanc in the Alps, but Mount Elbrus in the Caucasus. Mont Blanc is 15,782 ft tall. Mount Elbrus is 18,510 ft tall. It's in the southern mountain range that helps mark the border between Europe and Asia (readers of this blog know that the Ural Mountains mark the northern border of the continents).

When Slava and I were a mere 40 miles from Mount Elbrus in the town of Kislovodsk, I very much wanted to take a day trip to this site. Its permanent ice cap feeds 22 glaciers. It is said to be where Zeus chained Prometheus, the Titan who stole fire from the gods and gave it to mankind. Zeus knew what he was doing. Mount Elbrus is intimidating.

I haven't been as scared in a long time as I was on Mount Elbrus. Now I happen to be a 'fraidy cat and scare easily (never taking roller coaster rides). For those who really like a thrill ride, I recommend the cable cars and chair lift on Mount Elbrus.

There is a sleek, French-built cable car system on Mount Elbrus that looks quite safe. Unfortunately it's not working. Some Russian bureaucrat decided to save money (or pocket some money) instead of providing lightning protection for the new equipment. The predictable happened and the electronics of the cable car system got fried.

Slava and I rode up the mountain on the old Soviet-era cable car system. It was built in segments between 1959 and 1976, so it's at least 34 years old. The creaking journey high above the rocky mountainside took 40 minutes, and I spent much of that time worrying that the bureaucrat who decided not to install lightning protectors on the new system was the same bureaucrat in charge of maintenance on the old system.

Riding in the enclosed cable car cabin was bad enough. The chair lift beyond that was postively petrifying. Periodically we'd pass signs that said, "In the chair, don't...." I didn't know what it was that I wasn't supposed to do (which itself was a little worrying), but it turns out that the warning in Russian was not to jump out of the chair -- a caveat of the type you see on U.S. warning labels.

Jumping or falling from the chair would mean instant death. Below us -- way, way below us -- was a field of flint sharp boulders. Mount Elbrus is an ancient volcano, covered in chunks of basalt. It looks as inhospitable to life as the moon (although I can't say for sure, not having been to the moon).

Once out of the chair lift we had to climb a bit to the snow fields. Slava bounded forth ahead of me, assuming incorrectly that I was right behind him. Eventually he came back and patiently helped me along. We were at around 14,00 ft and able to enjoy the snowfield in shirt-sleeve weather.

I was glad that I had the opportunity to see the geography of the Caucasus, in order to appreciate better the continual troubles of the area. Tribes of people are quite isolated from each other, and fertile land is preciously scarce.

Roads through the Caucasus are not good. We had a four-hour drive to get to Mount Erbrus, going through several towns and driving along winding roads. We were in a 10-passenger Toyota, sitting in the very back. The driver sped along heedlessly, and we were bouncing up and down so much I felt like I was on a galloping horse for four hours. I felt saddle sore afterwards.

For anyone who likes adventure travel, I recommend taking a trip with Slava.